ALMOST 200 YEARS ago, the old Thompsons Bakery in Cork City was known for producing up to a mile of swiss roll daily due to its popularity.
In the same beautiful premises today, a team of innovative and dedicated chefs, bar and floor staff work together to provide a dining experience designed to have patrons eager to return as soon as they finish their meal. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply enjoying a midweek treat, as soon as you step into The Glass Curtain, its sophisticated interiors and warm welcome from the team immediately set the tone for a truly unique meal.
Opened by Cork-born chef Brian Murray in 2019, the restaurant’s name pays homage to the incredible history of its building as it is thought to have been affectionately called “The Glass Curtain” in the 1960s as a nod to its striking glass architecture.
Whilst acknowledging and appreciating the legacy of the building and the wider culinary community in Cork, The Glass Curtain is one of many restaurants that have contributed to the evolution of the Rebel county’s excellent culinary culture. As Murray tells The Journal, “It’s a really exciting time to be cooking in Cork.”
Prior to opening his own restaurant, Murray spent the best part of a decade gathering experiences around the world to inform and inspire his approach to flavours and curating a memorable atmosphere for diners. Murray details his path to The Glass Curtain: “I started my cheffing career in a restaurant in Midleton in East Cork formerly called Raymond’s – now Ferrit & Lee – where I did a 3-year apprenticeship between there and Cork Institute of Technology. As soon as I finished that, I wanted to get out into the world to get experience in great restaurants and travel. I moved to Dubai when I was 20 years old, straight out of college. I spent 5 years working in 2 different hotels. Firstly, The Grand Hyatt and then in One & Only The Palm where I worked in Yannick Allenos signature restaurant STAY.”
He continues, “Following that, I started working as a private chef on yachts. I spent 5 years travelling mainly in The Mediterranean, the Caribbean and the east coast of the US and Canada. Finally, after those 10 years away, I felt it was time to come home and open my own place, which was always my long-term plan. I moved back to Cork early in 2019 and got to work opening The Glass Curtain. I wanted to create the kind of restaurant I loved going to. After travelling so much over the years, there were so many restaurants I loved around the world. I wanted The Glass Curtain to be an upbeat city centre restaurant; with a lively dining room with great food, drinks and service. ‘Raw and refined’ was an early description of the dining room, keeping some industrial feel with high exposed concrete ceilings and bare walls but some more luxurious finishes on the bar and banquette seating.”
Since opening, The Glass Curtain has utilised the incredible wealth of fresh produce available across Cork in their beautifully curated menu. “I love the interactions with all the different local farmers,” Murray says. “We’re so lucky in Cork to have such a bounty of great produce throughout the year. There’s something really special about cooking with ingredients that you know exactly where they came from.”
The close proximity to such incredible fresh produce makes cooking seasonally all the more exciting as there’s a marked difference in flavour, as Murray notes. “Spring is great because it feels like things have been pretty scarce for a few months and now everything is coming back to life. My two favourite Springtime ingredients have to be the wild garlic that’s suddenly everywhere and the asparagus we get from Gort na Nain Farm. Their season is pretty short which just makes it more special to look forward to it. Ultan picks the big spears early in the morning for us while they are still cold in the ground which keeps them so fresh and they are in the kitchen by 10am. I just love them simply grilled and dressed with plenty of flaky salt and arbequina olive oil.”
Naturally, the finest quality produce comes from local farmers and suppliers which have become as integral to The Glass Curtain’s team as the staff working there during the lunch and dinner services. “The community that has been built around the restaurant is easily my favourite thing about it. In particular, the team working here, of course, extends then to all the different local growers and producers. Also, all of the different people around the Cork hospitality industry that you get to know and all the regular guests we’ve gotten to know since opening. That element to running a restaurant wasn’t something that I had considered too much when planning to open The Glass Curtain so it’s been such an incredible surprise,” says Murray.
When Brian Murray isn’t serving up delicious dishes in The Glass Curtain, we asked him how he likes to spend his Night Out, Night Off.
Down the Local: “We’re lucky to have so many great bars around MacCurtain Street and each one has so much personality and character. I love a quiet pint in the Sin É or Dan Lowery’s Tavern. Then the regular spot for an after-service pint with the gang is always The Shelbourne. Cask and Paladar are great for cocktails; luckily, they are all on our street.”
Dream Night Out: “Keeping it on MacCurtain Street again, there are two great wine bars that both opened last year and are open on Sundays which is ideal for us! I love going to the MacCurtain Wine Cellar for some anchovies served with crispy baguettes and butter. One of the co-owners, Sean Garango is great and will talk you through all their wines. We did a pop-up there last October which was great fun and will certainly be a yearly event. Then we usually move on to Nells Wine Bar where they always have great seasonal small plates so we tend to order the whole menu to share. I love their food, there’s something really natural about it but there are always bold punchy flavours. Then, the ideal next stop would be to Paladar for some Latin American-inspired cocktails and with any luck our barman Danilo Milk could be doing a DJ set there. It always makes for a great night!”
Morning off Ritual: “Brú for a double espresso and then on to 5 Points for a salted bagel with cream cheese and bacon is the go-to in terms of their food and probably another short americano there! Then I’m nicely set up for a day in the kitchen.”
Hidden Gem: “Aside from all the great hospitality spots in our area there are also loads of cool retail spots. I love having a browse in Salvagem or Mother Jones, there’s also Stokes Clocks and Watches just down the road from us which is such a cool little shop full of old clocks ticking away; feels like going back in time a bit when you walk in there.”
Weekend Getaway: “I love taking trips to Dublin. There are so many great restaurants there that I want to get to but rarely get the chance. West Cork is always a winner, too. We always make a trip down to Dede a couple of Sundays in the year. Finally, St Francis Provisions in Kinsale is always a great day out. I was so delighted for Barbara and all the team for getting their Bib Gourmand this year too, so well deserved.”
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